Guides · 5 min read
Diode laser vs IPL vs alexandrite: the differences for hair removal
By Marta Fernández · Updated
If you’ve been reading up on laser hair removal, you’ll have seen some salons talking about diode, others about alexandrite, others about “pulsed light” and a few about Nd:YAG. They all promise the same thing in different words, and it’s easy to end up thinking some are good and others bad. That isn’t the case: each technology has its own strengths. This guide explains what they have in common, how they differ and how to choose sensibly.
What they all have in common
All these technologies work on the same principle: light reaches the hair, the dark pigment (melanin) absorbs it and turns it into heat, and that heat weakens the follicle. From that come three rules that always apply, whichever device is used:
- The hair needs pigment. White, grey or very blonde hair responds poorly to all of them.
- You need several sessions. Only hair in its growth phase is affected.
- Tanned skin is a problem. If the skin has more pigment than usual, it competes with the hair for the energy.
What changes between them is the light they emit, how deep it reaches and how much the skin heats up along the way.
Diode laser
The diode emits light at a single wavelength, at a point that penetrates the skin well and that the melanin in the hair absorbs efficiently, without the skin’s melanin taking it all. That combination makes it very versatile: it treats coarse and finer hair, small and large areas, and skin types from fair to fairly dark, by adjusting the energy and pulse duration.
How it feels depends a lot on the cooling. Devices with contact cooling, such as a chilled sapphire tip, protect the surface and make the session considerably more comfortable. Many diode devices also allow a gliding technique, sweeping the handpiece across the skin, which speeds up large areas.
Alexandrite laser
Alexandrite emits a slightly shorter wavelength than the diode, which melanin absorbs very strongly. That makes it especially useful on fair skin with dark hair, including the fine hair other devices find harder. The flip side is that the skin’s melanin absorbs it more too, so on higher skin types or tanned skin it’s used with great caution, or not at all.
It’s usually paired with cold air or cryogen spray cooling, and the sensation is often described as a sharper snap.
Nd:YAG laser
The Nd:YAG works at a longer wavelength, which reaches deeper and is absorbed less by the skin’s melanin. That’s why it’s mainly reserved for darker skin types (V and VI), where other technologies have less leeway. In return, it’s less effective on fine hair and can feel more intense. Some machines combine several technologies in a single platform.
Intense pulsed light (IPL)
IPL isn’t a laser. It emits broad-spectrum light, filtered to keep the most useful part. Because it isn’t concentrated in a single wavelength, it spreads the energy less selectively. It works best on fair skin with dark, coarse hair, and results depend heavily on the specific device, as there’s a huge range of machines, from professional to home-use.
Home IPL devices work at lower energy. They can help with maintenance, but they’re not equivalent to professional equipment.
How to choose sensibly
Rather than asking “which technology is best?”, ask which technology suits your skin and hair, and who’s going to use it. Some useful questions:
- What’s your skin type? On medium and darker skin, the diode and Nd:YAG give more leeway.
- What’s your hair like? If it’s fine and dark on fair skin, alexandrite performs especially well; if it’s coarse, almost any option works; if it’s white or grey, none do.
- Which area do you want treated? Large areas benefit from devices that glide; small ones, from precision.
- How is the skin cooled? It affects both comfort and protection of the surface.
- Do they do an initial consultation? A salon that looks at your skin and hair before selling you a package is a good sign.
- Do they explain the limits? Be wary of anyone who promises identical results for everyone or talks about hair removal “for life”.
One last point: the name of the technology doesn’t tell the whole story. Two diode devices can differ a lot in power, handpiece size or cooling system, and the same device performs differently depending on who’s using it. So it’s also worth looking at the experience of the person treating you, whether they adjust the settings session by session and whether they review with you how your hair is responding.
Why we use diode at Narumi
We chose the diode because it lets us safely treat most of the people who come to the salon: very fair and olive skin, women and men, small areas like the upper lip and large ones like the back or legs. In a city like Málaga, with many type III and IV skins and plenty of sun through the year, that versatility counts. The cooled sapphire tip does the rest: it chills the skin with every pulse and makes sessions easier.
That doesn’t mean other technologies are worse. If you have very fair skin and fine hair, alexandrite may suit you very well; if your skin type is very dark, Nd:YAG is a sensible option. What matters is that the technology is matched to you and that you’re told what to expect.
At Narumi
At Narumi Estética Avanzada & Bienestar, on Calle Cristo de la Epidemia in Málaga city centre, Marta Fernández works with a diode laser fitted with a cooled sapphire tip. Before you start, she assesses your skin type and hair and tells you frankly whether laser makes sense for you.
- Laser hair removal in Málaga: how we work, areas, packages and prices.
- Laser hair removal for men
- Facial laser hair removal
To find out how many sessions you’ll need and how to look after your skin, read our guide to sessions, skin types and aftercare.
| Diode | Alexandrite | Nd:YAG | Intense pulsed light (IPL) | |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Type of light | Laser, single wavelength | Laser, shorter wavelength | Laser, longer wavelength | Filtered broad-spectrum light; not a laser |
| Skin types it's usually used on | I to V, and VI with cautious settings | Mainly I to III | Darker skin (V and VI) | Mainly I to III |
| Hair it works best on | Dark, fine to coarse | Dark, including fine hair | Dark and coarse | Dark and coarse on fair skin |
| Typical sensation | Warmth and a brief snap; strongly influenced by cooling | A sharper snap; usually paired with cold air or cryogen spray | Deeper; can feel stronger | Spread-out warmth; varies a lot by device |
| White, grey or very blonde hair | Little response | Little response | Little response | Little response |
Frequently asked questions
Which technology is most effective for hair removal?
There's no single answer. Each technology performs best on a particular type of skin and hair, and two devices using the same technology can behave very differently. The diode is one of the most versatile because it adapts to almost every skin type and area. What influences the result most is that the device is set correctly for your skin, that your hair has pigment and that you stick to the intervals.
Is IPL a laser?
No. Intense pulsed light (IPL) emits light across many wavelengths at once, filtered to target the pigment in the hair. A laser emits a single, more concentrated wavelength. Both can reduce hair, but they behave differently on skin with more pigment and on fine hair. That's why IPL shouldn't really be called 'laser'.
Do home IPL devices work?
They can help maintain or somewhat reduce hair on fair skin with dark hair, as long as you follow the manufacturer's instructions. They work at lower energy than professional equipment, so they usually need more sessions and their effect is more limited. Before using one, read the contraindications, be strict about sun protection and avoid using it on tanned skin, tattoos or moles.
I have olive or darker skin. Which technology suits me?
For medium and darker skin types, the diode and the Nd:YAG offer the most leeway, because they can reach the follicle while putting less energy into the surface of the skin. Alexandrite and IPL are used with more caution on these skin types. In any case, the skin must not be tanned at the time of the session, whatever the technology.
Can I switch technology partway through?
Yes. The follicle doesn't 'know' which device treated it: what counts is the energy it receives. If you change salon or technology, say how many sessions you've had, how your hair has responded and whether you've had any reactions, so the new assessment can start from there. You may need a session or two to fine-tune.
